Phi Phi & Maya Bay early in the morning – arrive before everyone else

The island group consists of the inhabited main island of Phi Phi Don, with hotels, restaurants and Ton Sai pier, and the uninhabited, rocky Phi Phi Leh with Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and Viking Cave. Then there are smaller islands such as Bamboo Island and Mosquito Island to the north.

From Ao Nang the speedboat ride takes about 45 to 60 minutes in calm seas. The area belongs to Hat Noppharat Thara–Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park, and an entrance fee is usually charged.

Maya Bay was completely closed from 2018 to 2022 so the coral and beach could recover. Since reopening, strict rules apply: boats may no longer enter the bay and instead dock at a jetty on the back side. Swimming in the bay is not allowed, and the length of stay is limited.

On top of that, Maya Bay closes every year for around two months during the southwest monsoon, most recently from early August to the end of September. The exact dates are set – and can be changed – by the national park authority, so check the current status before you travel.

The big day trips from Phuket and Krabi usually reach Phi Phi from late morning. Start very early, though, and you arrive while the bays are still quiet. The light is soft, the water smooth, and instead of hundreds of visitors there are only a few at the Maya Bay jetty.

An early start has another advantage: when the crowds arrive around midday, you have already moved on to quieter spots – or are heading back before the afternoon wind picks up.

A well-planned Phi Phi day links the classics in the right order:

Since swimming is not allowed at Maya Bay, the swimming happens elsewhere. Pileh Lagoon is the classic: the boat anchors in the emerald basin and you swim straight off the boat between the cliffs. It is calmest early in the morning.

Good snorkel spots are along the cliffs of Phi Phi Leh and around Bamboo Island, where shallow water drops into deeper reef. At Bamboo Island you can also relax on the white beach – there is shade under the trees inland.

Phi Phi lies in the open sea, so the crossing depends more on the weather than trips into Phang Nga Bay. In the dry season the sea is usually calm; in the rainy season it can be rough. If you get seasick easily, take precautions.

Plan a full day, even if you want to be back early. Pack reef-safe sunscreen, snorkel gear and a light jacket for the fast ride in the morning.