Phi Phi Don vs Phi Phi Leh: the difference and which to visit

Phi Phi Don is the island where people live, stay, eat and arrive. Phi Phi Leh is the island you look at, visit and leave again. Both belong to the Phi Phi group in Krabi province and lie so close together that they can be combined in one day.

The most common misunderstanding concerns Maya Bay. The famous bay from the film The Beach is not on Phi Phi Don but on Phi Phi Leh. So if you want to see Maya Bay, you are not planning a stay on the main island but a boat trip to the uninhabited neighbouring island.

Phi Phi Don is the main island of the group and the only place where you can stay overnight. Its centre is Ton Sai Bay with the pier where ferries and boats arrive. Behind it lies a narrow strip of land that divides the island into two halves and on whose other side the bay of Loh Dalum opens. Between these two bays you find shops, restaurants, bars and accommodation. The place is lively and touristy; the island is small and can largely be explored on foot.

Scenically Phi Phi Don scores with limestone cliffs, beaches and coves. Among the well-known targets is the viewpoint above Ton Sai, from which you look over the two bays and the isthmus. The way up leads over steps and can be strenuous depending on the weather; early in the morning or late in the afternoon is more pleasant. Further beaches and coves along the island’s coast can be reached by boat, including Monkey Beach, which is known for its monkeys. If you see the animals, do not feed them and keep your distance.

Phi Phi Don has a rhythm of its own. During the day many day guests arrive by ferry and excursion boat; in the evening it becomes quieter for those who stay overnight. That makes the island interesting for travellers who deliberately want to leave the day trip behind and spend more time on the spot.

Phi Phi Leh is the smaller of the two islands and uninhabited. There is no accommodation and no town, only steep limestone walls rising straight out of the water. That is exactly the appeal: Phi Phi Leh is pure backdrop. Well-known targets include Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and Viking Cave.

Maya Bay is a small, almost circular bay enclosed by tall limestone walls on three sides. It became world famous through the 2000 film The Beach. After years of heavy crowds the bay was closed for a time so that nature and coral could recover, and it is now accessible again with clear rules. You can read more of the history in our guide to movies in Krabi.

Pileh Lagoon is a sheltered bay with strikingly green, calm water surrounded by cliffs. It counts as one of the most beautiful swimming spots around Phi Phi. Viking Cave is a cave on the island’s coast that is said to take its name from old drawings on its walls. According to reports, edible nests are collected there; entering is usually not intended, and you see it from the boat.

Because Phi Phi Leh is uninhabited, you only experience the island during the day and only by boat. That is why the time of day matters so much here: all boats arrive at the same time, and if you come early or late you experience the island far more quietly.

This is the real decision behind the Don-or-Leh question. You can only stay overnight on Phi Phi Don. Phi Phi Leh remains a destination for boat trips. If you stay on Phi Phi, you choose the main island as your base and reach Phi Phi Leh from there by boat.

For most Krabi travellers a day trip is the better solution. It combines both islands, avoids moving with luggage and brings you back to your accommodation in Ao Nang in the evening. Highlights such as Maya Bay and Pileh Lagoon can also be reached with an early start ahead of the ferries. That is a major advantage of a private boat.

An overnight stay on Phi Phi Don is worthwhile if you deliberately want to experience the evening and early morning on the island and accept Ton Sai as your base. That has its own charm but means more planning for arrival and luggage. Ferry times and prices change, so we give no numbers; check the current status with the providers.

Our advice: if Phi Phi mainly means Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and snorkelling for you, plan a day trip from Ao Nang. If you want a few nights of island atmosphere, Phi Phi Don is a trip of its own and not a continuation of your Krabi programme.

The Phi Phi islands lie off the coast and can only be reached by boat. From Ao Nang the ride by speedboat takes roughly an hour in calm seas; depending on boat, route and sea state it can be shorter or longer. Ferries and longtails have different times; schedules and prices change, and we make no statements about them. Please check the current status with the providers.

The stretch of sea between the mainland and Phi Phi is more open than the sheltered bays along the coast. In rough seas the ride can be uncomfortable or not possible; in the rainy season trips are therefore weather-dependent. For details on the seasons see our guide to the best time to visit Krabi.

Note also that the Phi Phi islands belong to a national park. An entrance fee is usually charged; the amount and rules are set by the national park authority and can change. On our Phi Phi tours, national park fees are included in the service according to the tour data.

Maya Bay is subject to stricter rules than most other places in the region. Most recently these included: boats no longer dock in the bay but at a jetty on the back of the island, swimming in the bay is not allowed, the length of stay is limited, and the bay closes for around two months every year, most recently in August and September. The national park authority sets rules and dates and changes them occasionally. Check the current status before you travel.

Why these rules exist is shown by the bay’s history: after years of mass crowds it was closed in 2018 so that the coral and the ecosystem could recover. The rules protect exactly that recovery. Anyone who follows them helps ensure that the bay can be visited in the long term. We are planning a detailed overview in a separate article on opening and closing dates.

On Phi Phi Leh as a whole the same applies: take nothing, touch nothing, do not feed animals, leave no rubbish. That goes without saying, but it matters most at heavily visited places.

Phi Phi is one of the most visited destinations in the Andaman Sea. The main mass of excursion boats and ferries usually arrives in the morning and around midday. If you are there early, you see Maya Bay and Pileh Lagoon in soft light and with far fewer people. That is our most important advice for every Phi Phi day.

An early start means getting up early but enjoying the highlights ahead of the ferries. Our Phi Phi Early Bird tour leaves at 7 am for exactly this reason. If you prefer to set out later, you can use the late afternoon, when many boats are already heading back. Midday is busiest and the light harshest.

Weekdays and season also play a role. In high season more is going on, in the shoulder periods it is quieter but more weather-dependent. More in our guide to Krabi without the tourist crowds.

One honest note: we do not promise empty beaches. Famous places stay famous. But with an early start, good planning and a small boat you will see them differently from most visitors.

With a private boat you do not have to choose between Don and Leh. Our Phi Phi Early Bird tour leaves at 7 am and lasts about eight hours. The stops are Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon, Viking Cave and Bamboo Island with a lunch break on the white beach. So you experience Phi Phi Leh with its highlights and one of the smaller islands of the group without having to stay overnight on Phi Phi Don.

Snorkelling, swimming and relaxing are part of the tour. Snorkel gear is free with us and is ticked when you book. Wishes about the programme, for example a stop near Phi Phi Don or Monkey Beach, we discuss when you enquire; whether and how they fit depends on weather, sea state and park rules.

If you also want aerial photos, you can add the 4K drone package. Note that rules for drones apply in national parks and flights are not allowed everywhere; your captain clarifies this on the spot.

The boat is a white hardtop cabin boat with two 300 hp engines, with a bench seat and comfortable boat seats for a maximum of five guests. The hardtop provides shade. If you want food, you can add catering for 500 THB per person.